🔗 Share this article All Culinary Artist Must Train Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Leading Restaurants. Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London. A Unexpected Accolade The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally surprised. “I am completely shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list. The Appeal of Modesty This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner. A Signature Dish: Tantuni In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality. It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside. The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony. Beyond the Classic Tantuni Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”. For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste. Outranking the Stars Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations. While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure. The Philosophy of Hospitality The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner. “I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.” The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”. A Story of Hard Work In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son. Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work. “Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares. An Achievement for the People This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.